Recommended Electric Skateboard Longboard Setup Kits
Lightweight Commuter
Electric Skateboard Longboard Build
Lightweight, Reliable and Easy To Commute
The best lightweight electric skateboard used as a transportation vehicle for the daily commute would be the "Lightweight Commuter". This could be the type of electric skateboard that you are looking for. You want a very lightweight electric skateboard (the lightest electric skateboard that you can make) it's ideal to use longboard decks that are 30" to 36" in length. Depending on your rider weight, you want to choose a decent # of ply sheets on the board (plywood sheets). The typical flex boards are 4 to 5 ply. The typical downhill sturdy boards are 7 to 9 ply. The sturdy/hard boards 7ply+ don't flex and are meant for more downhill speeds. I personally recommend a kicktail longboard from 30" to 36" for the daily commute. Then add a pair of our Single Motor Electric Skateboard Kit which also includes a set of (4) 83mm Flywheels and the entire drive train system, Single Motor 1500 watts, 6s battery, battery charger and an Electronics Enclosure to secure all your high quality components. This build is an ideal lightweight build that will cost the least as well as provide a decent board for climbing hills. Our kit is the most affordable kit available as well as the most durable. Build Components - What You Need- Longboard Deck that is 30" to 38" decks.
- Single Motor Mechanical Kit
- Single Motor 2200 Watt Electrical Kit
- Plexiglass Electronics Enclosure
- Bearings/Spacers/Risers
- Battery - (2) 3S 5000mah
- Battery Charger
- Power - 2.2KW
- Speed - 20-25mph
- Hill Climbing - 15-20% Hills
- Acceleration - Good
- Weight - 10-12 lbs
- Range - 6 to 8 miles
- Charge time - 45 mins to 1 hour
- Use (2) 3s 8000mah batteries for added distance. However, adding additional weight to the board itself.
- Carry spare sets of (2) 3s 5000mah/8000mah for added distance.
- Upgrade to 8S battery and increase your voltage for added power and acceleration.
- Use your kicktail to move in traffic. Place your motor on the rear side of the board.
Hi Miguel,
I’ve sent you an email as well.
Yes, I am working on a bolt on kit which will bolt onto existing trucks. What trucks are you currently using? The bolt on motor mounts will be around the range of $90-$130/each.
We should be having custom 5065 200KV motors for about $65. We currently already sell 6S ESC’s for $60 + $10 for Programming Card.
We will start selling the timing gears, pulleys and belts separately for others who want only those items specifically.
You can always purchase a regular RC transmitter such as a GT2B and/or the Quantum Pistol Grip from HobbyKing for about $20 bucks/each.
As for the batteries, the cheapest route will always be (2) 3S 5000mah Zippy Flightmax from HobbyKing for $22/each + S/H. Anything customized will cost much more.
As for a an aluminum plate – of course it is always cheaper doing it yourself. However, it doesn’t always work the best. We do offer a $35 aluminum plate which you can weld onto the trucks – currently they work best with circular trucks aka Paris Trucks.
Hope this helps answer some of your questions. Your comments are greatly appreciated.
Building your own EBoard can get pricey when compared to buying one outright . The true advantage to building your own EBoard is that you can easily customize and Hot Rod it! I’d like to see the doorknob closer to where the average kid on the street can build one and not where it’s just a novelty toy for the well-to-do. For that to happen you will need to sell an electric drive kit that I can adapt to my existing board without having to buy new trucks (since I already have a pair. I can buy decently watted brushless outrunners on ebay for cheap (~2000w @ ~$50), and I can get the matching ESC for near the same price (so 1 mtr w/esc for $100 and times 2 for $200 producing 4KW – producing over 4hp considering losses. The items I’m having trouble finding or sizing correctly are the timing drive gears (I already have wheels and I’m wiling to drill and screw a pulley to them), the drive belt (plenty out there for $10 but guidance would be nice), the wireless controller for $50 (plenty out there but not reasonably priced); a motor plate that I can have welded or just bolt on (for around $10 to $20 depending on complexity since i can buy an aluminum plate for about $2 and cut and drill to build my own). And then there are batteries, which raises the argument for cordless li-on drill batteries which can be cheaply obtained with a charger, if you don’t already have a set or two (if not trying to make a sleek fashion statement, then don’t really care if there’s a battery pack somewhere on the deck, especially if it shaves another $200 or more off the total build price.
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